DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

 

Beach huts are wonderfully photogenic and you can get great pictures of them almost regardless of the lighting conditions. However, beach huts get elevated to iconic status when the scene is complemented by a photogenic sky.

 

1. Gear Suggestions

A wide-angle will help you make the most of big skies, but even the short end of your standard zoom should be fine. Obviously the wider your lens the more sky that you can include. However, there is the danger of going too wide and including fantastic sky detail as well as more mundane bits, so do frame carefully. A selection of filters can come in very handy so do pack some graduates as well as the polariser.
 

2. When?

Lovely skies can occur at any time of year and at any time of day so you just have to be aware of the conditions and keep an eye on what’s happening. With heavy showers followed by brief spells of intense sunlight, there is every chance of dramatic skies, not to mention things like rainbows.

Periodically check what’s happening in the heavens as the day progresses and in the end, you might end up with a good set of images, all taken from the same spot but looking very different as the sky is constantly changing.

 

3. Metering

Exposure can be tricky because of the wide contrast range between the sky and the beach huts, so you need to think about metering to ensure the optimum result. In some cases, you might even find the foreground to be brighter than the sky, say when there is a doom-laden dark sky behind the sunlit huts.

With this sort of shot, the most important of the scene is the highlight detail (usually the sky) so meter off that and let the shadows worry about themselves. If the foreground then looks too gloomy use exposure compensation to help and reshoot.

If the light is changing quickly, and this can happen in stormy conditions, bracket exposures to make sure you get a result you are happy with. If you find the sky is still coming out too light, fit a graduate filter.

 

 

4. Enhance

A polariser can intensity a colourful or a stormy sky depending on the direction of the light so that too can work. A polariser can enhance a sky to make it work even better for a black & white conversion. However, you might prefer the natural approach and that is perfectly fine.

 

5. Composition

In terms of composition, being bold can help. Some people might want to compose using the rule-of-thirds, but this can actually look rather static. Lining up the huts along the very bottom of the frame can work better and give even more prominence to the sky. Just explore the options when you are framing up the shot.

 

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‘Icon’ messenger bag in four colour combinations

 

Billingham has unveiled the Icon, a new messenger bag joining its leisure range for the demands of modern everyday carry. Inspired by the brand's iconic Hadley Original, it's been redesigned with today's user in mind, offering smart organisation and versatility for work, travel and daily life, without losing the craftsmanship Billingham is known for. Made from Billingham Canvas or FibreNyte with full-grain leather and solid brass fittings, and still made at the company's own factory in England, the Icon gives existing fans a well organised lifestyle alternative to their photographic bags, while opening the door to professionals, commuters and travellers.

 

From Billingham:

Billingham is proud to introduce the latest addition to its leisure range – the ‘Icon’. A highly requested messenger bag inspired by our iconic Hadley Original, thoughtfully redesigned for everyday use to meet the evolving needs of today’s customer while staying true to the brand’s heritage of craftsmanship and durability.

Built in Billingham’s best-selling format, the Icon seamlessly blends timeless design with a highly functional everyday carry (EDC) and lifestyle layout. It has been carefully developed to support modern routines, offering enhanced organisation and versatility for work, travel, and daily use.

At the heart of the Icon is its commitment to premium materials. Each bag is constructed from Billingham Canvas or FibreNyte, complemented by full-grain leather and solid brass fittings. This combination ensures long-lasting performance while maintaining the distinctive aesthetic that defines the brand.

Functionality is central to the design. The Icon features a full-width internal pocket capable of holding up to a 14” laptop with a case, along with a wide zippered pocket for secure storage—now housing a discreet compartment designed to hold an AirTag for
added peace of mind.

Inside, users benefit from a bottle holder, front slip pockets, and medium-height net hammock pockets for organising smaller essentials. A solid brass key loop is also located inside the bag for easy access and everyday convenience. Externally, expanding front dump pockets provide additional quick-access storage.

Designed with comfort and travel in mind, the Icon features a sewn in, 50mm adjustable shoulder sling and includes the SP50 Shoulder Pad. A luggage retainer strap allows the bag to be securely attached to rolling luggage, making it an ideal companion for frequent travellers. The inclusion of Hadley Pro Front Straps with the quick release system, reinforces both the bag’s reliability and its unmistakable Billingham identity.

Finished with a refined UI label and carefully matched components throughout, the Icon represents a balance of heritage styling and contemporary functionality.

“The Icon reflects what our customers value most—durability, organisation, and timeless design,” said Harry Billingham. “It’s a natural evolution of our range, created for modern lifestyles without compromising the craftsmanship we’re known for.”

The Billingham Icon is designed for professionals, commuters, and travellers seeking a premium everyday bag that delivers both style and substance. For customers that already know and love our brand and photographic bags, this bag provides a wellorganised everyday lifestyle alternative.

 

Inside the ‘Icon’ messenger bag

 

Crafted in England

All bags are cut, stitched, and finished at the company’s factory in the West Midlands, where skilled craftspeople combine traditional techniques with modern materials. The launch reinforces the company’s long-standing commitment to British manufacturing and meticulous quality control.

 

Availability

The ‘Icon’ is available to purchase now, directly from our website and from authorised retailers.

 

UK SRP (INC VAT)  UK SRP (EX VAT) EUR US SRP £330.00 £275.00 €325.00 $377.00

 

For more information, please visit the Billingham's website.

© DJI

 

If you've ever tried filming with a smartphone for more than a few minutes, you'll probably know where the compromises start to show. While today's flagship phones capture impressive footage, they still can't quite match the combination of dedicated image quality, reliable stabilization, and creator-focused features that purpose-built cameras deliver.

That's exactly where the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 continues to shine.

Designed for vloggers, travellers, and anyone creating video content on a regular basis, the Pocket 3 packs premium camera hardware into a body that's small enough to fit in your pocket. Better still, DJI is currently offering a limited-time discount on the Creator Combo, making now an excellent opportunity to upgrade your filming setup.

Between July 22 and August 9, the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 Creator Combo is available for $549, reduced from its regular $629 price, saving buyers $80.

 

A compact camera that doesn't feel compromised

One of the biggest reasons the Osmo Pocket 3 has remained popular is that it removes much of the complexity that comes with traditional cameras.

Instead of carrying interchangeable lenses, an external gimbal, microphones, and additional accessories, creators get an all-in-one device that's ready to shoot in seconds. Whether you're documenting a holiday, filming a YouTube video, recording B-roll for client work, or simply capturing family moments, the Pocket 3 is designed to make the process as effortless as possible.

Its compact size also means you're far more likely to bring it with you than a larger mirrorless camera, making it an ideal everyday companion for spontaneous filming. 

 

Bigger sensor, better-looking footage

At the heart of the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 sits a 1-inch CMOS sensor, which is one of its biggest advantages over a smartphone.

The larger sensor gathers significantly more light, allowing it to produce cleaner footage with improved detail, stronger dynamic range, and noticeably better low-light performance. Whether you're shooting indoors, during sunrise or sunset, or in challenging lighting conditions, the Pocket 3 consistently delivers a more polished, cinematic result than you'd expect from such a compact device.

For creators looking to elevate the overall quality of their content without stepping into the world of larger interchangeable-lens cameras, it's a compelling middle ground.

 

Smooth video without carrying a separate gimbal

Anyone who's looked back at shaky handheld footage knows just how important stabilization can be.

Rather than relying entirely on digital stabilization, the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 features a built-in 3-axis mechanical gimbal that actively smooths movement while you record. The result is fluid-looking footage while walking, travelling, or filming on the move, without needing to mount your camera onto a separate stabilizer.

It's particularly useful for travel creators, event coverage, behind-the-scenes filming, and everyday vlogging where speed and simplicity matter. 

 

 

Built for modern content creation

Content today rarely stays on one platform, and DJI has clearly designed the Pocket 3 with that in mind.

Its 2-inch rotating touchscreen makes switching between landscape and portrait recording almost instantaneous, making it equally comfortable creating long-form YouTube videos or vertical clips for TikTok, Instagram Reels, and Shorts.

The display also makes self-recording much easier, helping solo creators frame themselves accurately without needing an external monitor.

 

A camera that suits almost any creator

The DJI Osmo Pocket 3 Creator Combo is well suited to a huge variety of filming scenarios, including:

• Travel videos
• YouTube content
• Daily vlogs
• Social media clips
• Lifestyle content
• Behind-the-scenes footage
• Everyday memories and family events

Because the Creator Combo bundles together additional accessories, it offers a more complete package for anyone wanting to start creating content straight away.

 

An excellent time to pick one up

Even several years after launch, the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 remains one of the strongest compact creator cameras available. It strikes an impressive balance between portability, image quality, ease of use, and professional-looking results without requiring the investment or learning curve of a larger camera system.

With DJI's current promotion running from July 22 through August 9, the Creator Combo becomes an even more attractive option. At $549, down from $629, it's an excellent opportunity to save $80 on a camera that continues to be one of the easiest ways to produce high-quality video wherever you go.

View This Deal

 

  Every year for one weekend in August Ramsey and the people who visit take a step back in time and celebrate the 1940s. The event, which you can find more information about on the Ramsey 1940's weekend website, is a great place to take your camera to and you're also guaranteed to have some fun while you are there. If you can't get to Ramsey there are plenty of other events that take place right across the country.     1. Gear Suggestions

If you arrive before the crowds then a 50mm lens is perfect for capturing people in costume but when the masses arrive or if you like to have a little more versatility, pack a zoom lens that gives you wide to mid-range focal lengths. A tripod's always helpful, particularly if you're heading to the dance in the evening when the light will be lower. They can be a little clunky and can get in the way though so you may like the flexibility a monopod gives you instead. Flash may be handy in the evening, but you could just turn up your ISO slightly or pop your camera on a tripod and use slightly longer shutter speeds.
 

2. Picking A Subject

When you arrive you'll find plenty of people dressed in 1940s clobber and RAF uniforms who are perfect for a nostalgic portrait shot or two. Some people will be so fabulously dressed they'll just shout: 'photograph me' at you but make sure you take a good walk around to see who else is hiding among the vehicles and stalls. You could get a few candid snaps of the crowds as you do so too.

 

 

3. Ask If It's OK

When you do find your subject make sure you ask their permission and don't be in a hurry to photograph them where they stand as you could look back and realise you have a modern car or burger van ruining your shot. You can try and throw the ugly background out of focus but if you have the time, make the effort to chat to your subject and ask them to move somewhere that's more appropriate. You still may want to throw the background out of focus and leave all the attention on your subject, but at least the blurred objects and shapes will be more fitting to the era you're trying to capture. If you can, do take your time when you're looking through the viewfinder and pay particular attention to their costume. It's amazing how straightening a skirt or fastening up a button can make a big difference to the overall shot.

 

4. Capture Movement

If you hang around for the dance you'll need fast shutter speeds to freeze the action on the dance floor or put your camera on a tripod and slow your shutter speeds to blur the movement of the skirts/dresses as they spin around. There will also be plenty of candids off the dance floor such as to capture too. 
 

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  If you're looking for a project that you can shoot over several weeks or even months have a go at creating a collection of images that all share the same colour.

As this is something that can take quite some time to do, it's something you can shoot alongside your other types of photography or you could try working on several different 'colour themes' all at once.

Your subjects don't have to be the same but it's important that the colour is, that way once you have a few images in your collection, you can begin to group them together to create panels and triptychs to hang on walls or post in online galleries.  

 

As you don't know what you'll be photographing until you see it, it's best to take a zoom lens out with you. By doing so you'll have various focal lengths to play with plus if you plan on walking for a while, you won't have lots of kit weighing you down.

You can sit and create a list of items organised into colour groups you can photograph or try visiting a location and wandering around to see which colour would be best to shoot in that particular place.

Do remember that the lack of other colours does mean you'll have to work harder to ensure your composition is interesting. That means you need to pay particular attention to textures, lines, shapes and framing.

     

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- Partner Content -

 

 

Capturing the best possible quality of a video in-camera on set is mostly the best approach. Still, there are occasions when post-processing helps rescue low-quality videos or refine HD videos for better visual experiences.

When comparing and testing the best video enhancers, the following aspects are taken into consideration. You can refer to them when picking the best fit for your scenarios.

• Natural look and enhancement strength: Does the output remain realistic? Can users fine-tune the enhancement manually instead of over-processing the footage?
• Temporal consistency: Does the enhanced video remain smooth and free of flickering?
• Noise reduction and detail restoration: Can the video enhancer remove unwanted noise while preserving natural textures and intentional film grain?
• Processing speed: Besides hardware performance, how efficiently does the software utilize available CPU and GPU resources?
• Workflow flexibility: Is it a standalone application, an online service, or a plugin? Can it fit into different editing workflows?

 

Testing Video Enhancers for Various Scenarios

 

Bearing in mind these aspects, I evaluated each video enhancement software and online app using footage of various types and with different quality issues.

The tests start with Aiarty Video Enhancer, with comparisons in the case studies below. You can claim a Free License from Aiarty to access the full features and check if it fits your projects.

The same clips were also processed with popular tools, including Topaz Video, DaVinci Resolve, and several open-source models and online video enhancers. Their strengths vary depending on the footage, workflow, and hardware, as summarized in the comparison chart.

 

Case 1: Enhance Low-Resolution Videos and Restore Skin Details

Portrait videos can appear blurry on a larger screen or when reframed for different platforms. AI-powered video enhancement software helps restore clarity while preserving skin details.

 

 

Aiarty Video Enhancer offers both AI-powered automatic enhancement and manual fine-tuning, making it easy to balance detail recovery with a natural output while avoiding an over-sharpened or painterly look. For this clip, I applied the superVideo vHQ model, manually set the enhancement strength to around 0.85-0.9, and slightly adjusted the exposure to better suit the indoor environment.

For the same footage, Topaz Video produced good results with the Iris model, Recover Detail set to 20 to 25, and 2x upscaling for higher output quality.

 

Case 2: Fix Noisy and Low-light Footage

Below is a mobile recording of a harbor near Miniatur Wunderland in Hamburg. It was captured at dawn under limited lighting, and the small sensor of the iPhone 6 makes the footage grainy and noisy.

 

 

After processing the clip in Aiarty Video Enhancer, the superVideo model automatically reduces distracting noise, while manually setting the enhancement strength to around 0.9-0.95 helps preserve fine grain and texture for a more natural look.

 

Case 3: Restore Soft, Old Videos and Enhance Quality

This clip of the Prague Astronomical Clock was shot with Olympus E-M10 II about a decade ago. It was uploaded as a travel memory to share with friends and later downloaded again. 

Partly due to digital zoom and partly due to online compression, the old footage now looks somewhat soft and blurry. The intricate structures of the clock and the Gothic sculptures are less clear.

 

 

After enhancing it with Aiarty Video Enhancer, both the moDetail-HQ model and the superVideo vHQ model help restore architectural details, fix softness, and avoid a mushy look. Optionally, upscaling the video by 2x to 4K and manually increasing the exposure by +1 further improves the overall video quality.

The above test cases also produced good results in DaVinci Resolve using AI Noise Reduction and Super Scale, and in Topaz Video using the Film 4K Medium model with manual adjustments.

 

Best Free and Paid Video Enhancers Hands-On
Topaz Video

• Ideal for: Professionals with powerful workstations and videographers already working within the video editing ecosystem.
• Platforms and pricing: Windows, Mac, web, Adobe and DaVinci integration. $59/month for Personal, $69/month for Topaz Studio.

Topaz Video is a widely used AI video enhancer. It pioneered commercial diffusion-based video enhancement with Project Starlight to generate details for videos. Topaz combines several AI models into project-based workflows, including 4K video upscaling, noise removal, SDR to HDR, frame interpolation, video stabilization, motion deblur, and face recovery.

Depending on the video type or quality issue, users can process footage with different models, render previews, and adjust parameters to recover detail, improve sharpness, or restore focus.

 

Enhancing with Topaz: Proteus or Iris model, AI upscaling, Recover Detail+38, other manual tweaks

 

Comparing the available models, I recommend using Proteus Natural for overall enhancement and dehaloing, Nyx for noise removal, Iris for face restoration, and Starlight for severely degraded videos or gradual upscaling from 480p to 720p and then to 1440p. With the introduction of NeuroServer, Starlight variants can also run locally on systems with sufficient VRAM and a powerful GPU.

If your local hardware struggles with computationally intensive enhancement tasks, such as Strong Refocus or Starlight restoration, you can purchase cloud credits to process the footage online.

 

Aiarty Video Enhancer

• Ideal for: Videographers, content creators, and home users seeking a standalone tool and prioritizing natural, realistic video quality enhancement.
• Platforms and pricing: Windows and Mac. $165 Lifetime License, $79 Standard License, free trials available.

Aiarty Video Enhancer is a popular choice for users needing a standalone video enhancer with natural output quality. It avoids an over-smoothed, plastic look by providing tailored deep learning models with manual strength controls.

As shown in the previous tests, it uses AI-powered auto inference to reduce high ISO noise, improve the clarity of soft footage, restore skin details, and preserve natural textures. Optionally, you can upscale low-resolution videos to 2K or 4K, adjust colors, increase the frame rate, and enhance audio quality.

 

Enhancing with Aiarty: superVideo model, x2 upscale, 0.85-0.90 strength, subtle color adjustments

 

With the real-time previewer, it is straightforward for users to quickly compare models and parameter settings, helping them find the best combination for a specific video before committing to the output.

With the Step Mode and Turbo speed choices, Aiarty scales well from everyday computers to high-end workstations. Casual users can enhance videos on a general device, while demanding restoration tasks and batch 4K upscaling benefit from more powerful GPUs.

 

DaVinci Resolve

• Ideal for: Videographers, colorists, and serious content creators.
• Platforms and pricing: Windows, Mac, and Linux. Studio version for $295, Free version without AI tools.

DaVinci Resolve is a fully-fledged video editor and color grading software. With editing features to sharpen videos, fix blurry footage, enhance contrast, and remove noise, you can surely use it as the best free video enhancer for desktops.

The free version offers powerful manual tools to improve your footage. You can fix underexposed videos, dehaze mushy footage, recover shadow detail, and pull back crushed highlights. For faithful enhancement, you can rely on traditional sharpening, timeline upscaling with Bicubic algorithms, and color corrections.

Tips: Use shortcut key Ctrl+= to zoom in and inspect details. For full screen preview, press Ctrl+F.

 

Testing DaVinci Resolve: 2X Super Scale (1080p to 2160p), 0.5 Sharpness

 

In the Studio version, you can unlock more AI features powered by the DaVinci Neural Engine. AI UltraNR, AI Ultra Sharpen, and Super Scale handle more challenging videos when traditional methods fail.

Since DaVinci adopts a node-based pipeline, you can apply quality enhancements in a non-destructive way and compare the results. A good rule of thumb is to remove noise when necessary, then apply color corrections and sharpening.

 

TensorPix

• Ideal for: Beginners and casual creators enhancing a few low-resolution videos, without installation.
• Platforms and pricing: Online enhancer. Free trial (1 credit equals roughly 2-min video enhancement), standard plan starts from $12.00/month.

TensorPix is a simple-to-use AI video enhancer online. It supports 2x and 4x video upscaling, artifact removal, FPS boost, and audio enhancement. Once you upload a short video to their server, you can specify whether the video is mainly about portrait, anime, landscape, AIGC, or other types. This gives the AI model better context before processing.

 

Testing Tensorpix: 960p to 2160p. Parameters: 4X Upscale ultra4, Clear Edge-AI sharpen 2.5

 

While local tools such as Topaz and Aiarty focus on natural detail restoration and 4K upscaling, TensorPix works for short-form videos and webcam captures. For quality problems such as dust and scratches from digitized 8mm tape, you can enable AI Dust Buster to make the video clearer.

 

Video2X

• Ideal for: Tech-savvy users and enthusiasts mainly focused on anime restoration and upscaling.
• Platforms and pricing: Windows and Linux (Free, Open Source); Online (Video2X Pro subscription)

Being open-source and free, Video2X wins the love of tech-savvy users to enhance video quality and resolution. Initially built to upscale and sharpen anime footage, most of its baked-in algorithms and models were suitable for cartoons and animations.

The developer of Video2X gradually integrates Real-ESRGAN models for live-action video upscaling and RIFE for frame interpolation. To avoid a cartoonish look on real-world videos, make sure you are using the correct filters and models.

 

Testing Video2X: source 720x1366; enhanced 2880x5464. Model: realesrgan-plus vs realcugan

 

Based on my test, here are tips to use a suitable model:

For the Real-ESRGAN processing, go with the realesrgan-plus model for camera-shot footage, and the other two models are for anime. If you prefer to be more conservative and fix soft animation, use Real-CUGAN models. For noisy, old animation, or digitized VHS animation captures, use models-se; for 720p source, use models-pro. If the models somehow smooth out the contrast along lines, you can experiment with the models-nose algorithms for a fix.

As shown in the comparison screenshot above, using Realcugan on real-world video can result in cartoonish lines.

Note for Mac users: Video2X only runs on Windows and Linux for now. You can use it via a browser with Google Colab for free sessions. The Video2X Pro offers online video upscaling and quality enhancement, starting from $14.90/month.

 

Wink Video Enhancer

• Ideal for: Reels, short-form videos, and social media content in general; Video enhancement on the go.
• Platforms and pricing: Online Video Enhancer, iOS and Android apps. Complimentary 100 credits, standard plan starts from $14.99/month.

Wink Video Enhancer works both as a video enhancer and beautifier via mobile and online. It includes modules for video repair, upscaling, expansion, retouching, denoising, and color correction.

 

Testing Wink Video Enhancer: Video repair module, auto enhancement, 1080p to 2160p

 

For video quality fixes, the app prioritizes auto-enhancement over manual editing. During my tests, after uploading this cropped kingfisher video, Wink would analyze and display the quality problems. It then automatically applied enhancement to the clip. 

For portrait videos, Wink also helps smooth skin, whiten teeth, and adjust lighting accordingly. To some degree, the beauty-filter aesthetic is a matter of personal preference.

Tip: If you are looking for granular manual tuning and professional cinematic restoration, Topaz Video and Aiarty Video Enhancer are designed for these scenarios.

 

Replicate

• Ideal for: Enthusiasts exploring AI models for video enhancement, video face restoration, colorization, and super-resolution.
• Platforms and pricing: Web; pay-as-you-go pricing based on compute usage. Some models also offer free trial runs.

At first glance, Replicate might seem out of place in this list of the best video enhancer tools. Rather than being a standalone app or online video enhancer, it's a cloud platform that hosts AI models for media generation and video quality enhancement.

Replicate has a dedicated collection page of AI models to enhance videos. It hosts video upscalers from Crystal and Topazlabs, a Stable video face restoration (SVFR) tool, a deodify video colorizer, animation video super resolution models, and many others.

 

 

Based on my tests, a seamless workflow is to complete the video restoration process first and leave video upscaling as the final step. 

For instance, for portrait videos with low-resolution faces, use GFPGAN Video or SVFR for face restoration; for old black-and-white footage, use DeOldify Video for colorization. In the final step, choose Real-ESRGAN Video, Topaz Video Upscale, or AnimeSR based on your video type, desired quality, and budget. 

 

Key Takeaways 

 

For users who have already tried other tools before reading this blog, you have probably experienced some common frustrations: waiting a long time for processing only to get unnatural, over-processed, painterly results; or using a free open-source workflow that comes with a steep learning curve.

Depending on your specific needs, expectations, skill level, and budget, you can choose from the best video enhancement software and web tools below.

 

Video Enhancer Best For Skill Level Availability Topaz Video Professional AI restoration, detail generation, and Adobe integration Intermediate to advanced

• $59/month for Personal
• $69/month for Topaz Studio.

Aiarty Video Enhancer Natural and realistic output, batch enhancement, standalone workflows Casual users, intermediate, and professionals

• Free License for light users and bulk projects 
• Lifetime License for $165 with unlimited free updates

DaVinci Resolve Video editing with seamless quality enhancement Professionals and dedicated colorists

• $295 Studio version
• Free version without AI tools

TensorPix Quick online enhancement, no installation Beginner

• Starts from $12.00/month

Video2X Anime restoration and upscaling Advanced

• Free, Open Source

Wink Video Enhancer Short-form video enhancement Beginner

• Starts from $14.99/month

Replicate Experimenting with open-source AI models and custom workflows Advanced

• Pay-as-you-go API
• Free Trials

 

For first-time users, hobbyists, and content creators who want high-quality results without going through dozens of installations and hours of testing, a practical approach is to start with one or two tools, test them with two or three common scenarios, and pay attention to these aspects:

• All-around video enhancement: Upscaling to 2K and 4K, noise reduction, low-light enhancement, deblurring, compression artifact removal, deinterlacing old videos, audio cleanup, color correction, and frame interpolation for low FPS footage.
• Natural-looking results: Look for tailored AI models and adjustable parameters that enhance different types of footage without creating an over-sharpened or painterly appearance.

Based on the above tests, Aiarty Video Enhancer offers balanced combinations of natural visual quality, enhancement capabilities, ease of use, and hardware compatibility. If you'd like to evaluate it with your own footage, you can start with the Free License from Aiarty Video Enhancer and see whether it fits your workflows and restoration needs.

 

Zoom burst photography is a photography technique that is achieved by zooming your lens in or out whilst the exposure is being taken. It's a great technique for exaggerating movement or for just adding an abstract feel to an image. Colourful subjects or scenes with patterns work well as they help create a really striking zoom burst that's full of bright, colourful lines.

 

1. Equipment Check List

To get the desired effect, you'll need your zoom lens and a tripod, to keep the image steady, plus this will allow you to have your hands free to smoothly control the zoom. A zoom with a good range to play with will mean you can get a really even effect, with some nice long streaks guiding the eye through the image. You'll also need a remote or cable release to eliminate any shake caused by pressing the shutter. If you don't have one, then use the self-timer setting on your camera. Using the flash on your camera or an external flash gun can help to add sharpness and freeze the image too.

 

2. Get The Zoom Right

The key to success with this technique is to get the amount of zoom burst right. If the zoom is too obvious then it may disguise the subject. If you don't zoom enough, then the image won't have the desired effect. You don't want your exposure to be too long, otherwise, your shots will be overexposed, but it needs to be long enough to enable you to create the zoom effect.

To create the effect you can zoom in or out, most people choose to zoom out. Press the shutter and wait for a while, around half to three-quarters of the exposure should do it, and then you need to zoom out in a smooth and fast manner. Leaving the image to develop for half to three-quarters of the exposure beforehand allows some definition to be captured in the image before the zoom is added. Try somewhere between 1-3 seconds for your starting exposure length and extended if it's needed. If you can, it's worth locking the focus, too so it stays constant.

Use a small aperture and an ISO of 100 or 200 for the best results. If you find that your images come out overexposed, it's probably best not to make the exposure time shorter as this will make it more difficult to fit the zoom in. Fit a polarising filter or ND filter instead and try again.
 

3. Experiment & Try Again

It's then quick and easy to see on the screen if your attempt was successful. If it wasn't, you can try again straight away. Experiment with the shutter speed and zoom timing until you find something that works for you and your subject. You may find you need to crop the shot for better composition but as the vanishing point will be in the middle of the frame, this won't cause any problems.

To be different, why not zoom in, try a shorter zoom, experiment with city lights at night or rotate the lens to add circular shape to your lines? If one idea doesn't work just delete the image and try again.

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1. Focal Lengths

Choosing the right focal length is critical to balancing the key elements in the frame of a landscape. Before hitting the shutter button, take the time to think about where you're placing the camera and the focal length you're using. For example, try a longer focal length and step back. This will pull distant objects into the image and create harmony with what's in the foreground. 
 

2. Foreground Interest 

Another way to balance your landscape shots is with foreground interest. An object placed in the foreground can help guide the eye in the right direction as well as filling in what could be a vast empty space when your attention is on mountains and other background detail. Foreground detail helps give landscapes a sense of depth too. For more information, take a look at this article: Why You Should Look For Interesting Foregrounds For Your Landscapes.

 

3. Add A Frame

An alternative way to add foreground interest is with a frame. We don't mean for you to go out with a large photo frame in-hand but do be on the lookout for items and objects out in the landscape that can be used to create a frame for your shot. Overhanging branches, doorways and arches are just a few examples of frames you can find when out-and-about. 
 

4. Basic Rules 

Don't overlook the basic rules of photography which includes the rule of thirds, lines, shapes and various other elements as these can help you balance your shot. You'll need to use your lens to complement the rule which could mean changing its position or adjusting the zoom. Take a look at these beginner's tips for more information: Beginner's Guide To Composition
 

5. Shoot Panoramics

As wide-angle lenses sometimes create distortion, an alternative way to shoot photos that have more of the landscape in them is with a panorama. You can shoot panoramas with a short telephoto focal lens and using a tripod helps but it's not essential. The important thing is the choice of scene. Scenes with close to the camera elements will not stitch properly with this method. However, you can buy dedicated panorama heads for scenes that have foreground as well as background interest. More panorama photography tips can be found here: How To Shoot Panoramas and Panoramas Without A Panoramic Head.

More information on lens choices for landscapes can be found in this article: Make The Most Of Your Lenses For Scenics 

 

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The longer reach of telephoto lenses is a brilliant thing for photographers who want to photograph shy wildlife, pull far away subjects closer or simply want to fill the frame to create an attention-grabbing shot. 

To show you just how versatile a telephoto lens can be, we've got a top list of 8 ways these long lenses can be used. Plus, should you be in the market for a new telephoto lens, we have quite a few top telephoto lenses featured in our top lists which include both Telephoto Prime Lenses and Telephoto Zoom Lenses. 

If you're not sure if you should purchase a zoom or prime lens, have a read of this tutorial: Prime Vs Zoom Lenses

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Here Are Our 8 Top Ways To Use A Telephoto Lens:
1. Bring Far Subjects Close

© Joshua Waller

 

The telephoto effect these lenses have make objects, that may actually have quite a lot of distance between them, appear as if they're sat close together. The longer your focal length, the more obvious the effect will be. It's useful when you have a city skyline or mountains in the background which will give you a more interesting and pleasing shot if they're pulled a little closer to the object closer to your lens e.g. the bridge, building or boulder that's your main point of focus.

 

2. Fill The Frame

© Joshua Waller

 

When you want to exclude some part of what's in your frame e.g. a boring grey sky that's in the background of your landscape shot, use a telephoto lens to focus in on the colourful tree line rather than having the trees and sky in shot. It'll also pull a distant subject closer to you, which means you can get frame-filling shots of shy wildlife or of a particular aspect of the landscape that's too far for you to get to.

 

3. Pick Distant Subjects Out

© Joshua Waller

 

If you want to draw attention to a particular aspect that would be lost if shot with a wider focal length, use a telephoto lens to isolate your subject. You can do this with shorter focal lengths, but the longer reach of a telephoto means you can isolate a subject that's some distance away from where you're shooting from.

 

4. Capture Shots Of Wildlife

© Richard Hanson

 

As a telephoto lens closes the distance between you and whatever you're photographing, it's an ideal lens for photographing wildlife. With a telephoto lens you'll be able to take shots that look like you were just a few steps away from your subject when really you were some distance away. This distance means your subject won't be scared off and if you're shooting what could be considered as a dangerous animal, the distance makes it safer for you.

    5. Photograph The Moon

© Joshua Waller

 

Your shots won't be as good as those who use telescopes, but you can still get excellent shots of the moon with a long telephoto lens. As well as a very long lens you also need a tripod, clear skies, good weather, remote/cable release, a few hours to spare and good technique. You can even take a number of shots, and combine multiple shots to produce a sharper image.

 

6. Portraits

© Joshua Waller

 

Shooting head or head and shoulder shots with a longer focal length can give a better perspective and allows for a tighter crop when working further away from your subject. This distance also means you don't have to work too close to your subject and as a result, they'll be more comfortable, and you'll have more natural-looking portraits. You'll also be able to capture shots without any distortion and backgrounds are more easily thrown out of focus, even when they are just a couple of meters behind your subject, meaning all focus falls directly on your subject. Just keep an eye on your shutter speed if working hand-held, though, as you don't want shake spoiling your shot. Find more tips on shooting portraits.

 

7. Shallow Depth Of Field

© Joshua Waller

 

As mentioned above, telephoto lenses make it easier to get the blurry backgrounds in photos that isolate your subject and really make them the focus of your shot. You don't want a distracting background detail competing for the viewer's attention and a shallow depth of field will make sure this doesn't happen.

 

8. Capture Action

© Joshua Waller

 

For fast-paced action that you can't get close to e.g. motorsport and flying events, you'll need the longer focal lengths telephotos give you as most of the time, it'll be impossible to get close to the action. To create a sense of pace, use your telephoto lens to shoot a few shots where your subject is sharp but the background is nicely thrown out of focus. How good you are at panning, what shutter speed you use, how fast your subject is moving and how much light's around will make this task harder / easier every time you head to the track, but do it a few times and you'll soon perfect your technique.

  More Top Tips

How about picking up some top composition tips that will help you perfect the shots you capture with your telephoto lens? There are also hundreds of top tutorials to read in our 'How To' section of the site. 

 

A photograph of an owl captured in flight has won ePHOTOzine's 'Photo of the Week' accolade this week.

The shot, titled 'Chaco Owl', was taken by Mike_Smith during a visit to the Bird of Prey Centre in Helmsley, North Yorkshire. The head-on angle gives you a proper look right at the owl, and the detail in the wings really brings out that sense of movement. A soft, plain sky behind it keeps all the focus on the bird.

It's a lovely capture with great detail and a brilliant subject, making it a fine example of bird photography.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we'll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards! 

Want to be our next POTW winner? Just upload an image to our gallery where you'll also find all of our past POTW winners.

 

When you head off on your holidays you'll probably spend some time at the beach and when the sun begins to set and the sky fills with those warm, summer shades, you and every other person on the beach will be pulling their camera out of its bag. The low sun may make great landscape shots but put anything in between you and the sun and it'll turn into a dark silhouette lacking shape and texture.

However, this isn't always a bad thing. For summer silhouettes to work you need a strong, recognisable shape so if you're headed to the beach with your family, why not use one or all of them in your shot? You could also spend time shooting other people as they walk along the shore or stand to watch the sunset.

 

1. Set-Up

Make sure you know what time the sun will be setting and in what direction as you don't want to turn up at a beach to find you can't actually see the sun setting from it. Once you have your chosen location make sure you arrive in plenty of time, which shouldn't be a problem if you've had a day out at the beach, but if you haven't been on the sand, at least an hour or two before the sun is due to set. Do check out tide times too as you don't want your kit and your family swept out to sea!

 

2. How To Shoot

Once you have a willing subject position them so your light source is behind them and it can help if you set yourself up so you’re shooting from a slightly lower angle, although this isn't a must. Take a test shot and have a look at the image on the back of the screen. Chances are unless you're working manually, you'll have shot a silhouette. If you don't get the desired look, try using exposure compensation and dial in a -1 or -2 setting. Using spot or centre-weighted metering will also help you capture a silhouette, although can still use multi-zone metering, you just need to aim the camera up at the sky and use exposure lock to take a reading from the brighter sky. Then all you have to do is recompose and take your image. 

 

3. What To Photograph

As mentioned strong shapes work well so get your subject to try and make different shapes while stood on the sand. This should be quite easy with kids but you may have to be more persuasive with adults!

If you have a group of people, get them to jump in the air so you can capture the shapes they create at the top of their jump. Try capturing a couple holding hands as they watch the sun go down or introduce props to keep your kids busy and more relaxed. Giving them a ball to throw or a bucket and spade to carry will create more interesting shapes and as a result, you'll have a more dynamic shot.

Experiment with angle and how far you crop in too to see how it can make a more interesting picture. If you're photographing someone's head, for example, shoot them as a profile rather than face on as you'll be able to see more features. Don't have too many objects too close together either as they'll all merge into one indistinct shape and the effect won't work as well.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to TheShaker (Day 30 - 'Beautiful Bokeh').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 25

'Hot' Theme

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Day 26

Ruins

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Day 27

Big, Bold Skies

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Day 28

Black & White Buildings

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  Day 29

Eyes

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Day 31

'Yellow' Colour Theme

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Leedslass1 (Day 11 - 'Negative Space').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 9

Crop Fields

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Day 10

Tourists

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Day 12

Letters

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Day 13

People Outdoors

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  Day 14

Long Exposures

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Day 15

Patterns

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

It's the school summer holidays here in the UK which means many will be heading to the coast either on day-trips or for a longer holiday which gives us photographers the chance to capture a few coastal landscapes. If you do have coastal landscapes on your summer shoot agenda, here are a few tips to think about.

  1. Time Of Day

You can capture coastal landscapes at any time of the day, however, most photographers favour the light during the 'golden hours'. You get this light regardless of where you are, but it is where it falls that is important. On the east coast, the land gets warm light early in the day but not later when the sea gets the benefit. On the west coast, it is the other way round. But this is a massive generalisation because of the way the coastline is not made up of straight lines. Check an OS map to see the potential of the coastline you're visiting and do your research online to ensure you don't miss the best light.

It's also worth noting that everything from blue skies dotted with white clouds to brewing storm clouds can work well at the coast, you just have to be out at the right time of day with the right gear which includes waterproofs and protection for your camera gear if you're heading out when the heavens have opened.

 

2. Pack The Right Accessories

Wide-angle lenses will be what we tend to reach for first when landscapes are in-mind and a tripod is an essential piece of kit no landscape photographer should be without. As you could be working with lower light levels and slower shutter speeds you may want to consider taking a remote / cable release to reduce the risk of camera shake and make sure image stabilisation is switched off when supporting your kit on a tripod otherwise shake could be introduced. To balance the exposure, you may find an ND grad filter handy as the sky tends to be a lot brighter than other areas of your shot.

 

3. Foreground interest

There's nothing wrong with a photo of an empty beach stretching out for what seems to be miles but by adding some foreground interest you'll give your image more depth, help guide the eye through the shot and keep people interested in your photo for longer. A low angle and a wide-angle lens will help exaggerate the perspective of the shot and anything from rocks and wood that's washed up after a storm to jetties, lobster pots and patterns in the sand can be used to add interest the foreground of your shot. Just remember you'll need a smaller aperture to get everything from the front to the back of the shot in focus. This could increase the exposure time, particularly if you're shooting during the 'golden hours', so make use of your tripod.

Reflections can be used as foreground interest to add more depth to a scene. They'll also help brighten your foreground, making the overall shot more evenly lit. Look for puddles left by the receding tide or try using the water sat in rock pools to capture reflections of a cloud-dotted or sunset sky.

 

 

4. Long exposures

If you're working when the light's lower or just like the 'misty' water effect, you're going to need to use slower shutter speeds. For this, you need a strong, sturdy tripod and you must make sure it's not going to topple over if a wave circles it. Try pushing the legs into the sand slightly to anchor its position; just remember to wash the feet when you get home to get rid of the sand and salt. If it's a particularly bright day you'll need an ND filter to reduce the amount of light reaching the camera's sensor and remember to use low ISOs as well as a small aperture. If you don't want to capture the 'blurred' water shot, you'll need to use quicker shutter speeds, wider apertures and you may need to increase your ISO level. Alternatively, visit the location earlier / later (depending on the time of day) when there's still plenty of light in the sky.

A blurry sky dotted with clouds will give you the chance to create patterns as the longer exposures cause the cloud's movement to stretch across the sky and if you wait until the sun's set you could capture the movement of the stars as trails above the ocean, but this is a wholly different technique in itself.

 

5. Horizons

You don't want it to look like the sea and sand's about to slide out of shot so make sure the horizon's straight and don't put it in the centre of the frame. If the sky's more interesting move the horizon down but if there's more interest in the foreground lose some of the sky and move the horizon up. If you are going to deliberately slope the horizon make sure you make it obvious otherwise it'll just look like you've not looked through the viewfinder to check if the horizon's level or not.

 

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Optical distortion is something that affects all lenses to some extent. However, the effect is more pronounced in certain lenses and can be used to give a different spin on an otherwise 'normal' view of an object. 

Although it distorts images, it is not always a negative effect and it can be used in different situations to create abstract or more creative shots of subjects.

Below, we've listed what types of optical distortion there are and how they can affect your images, either in a negative or positive way. 

• What is Curvilinear distortion?
• What is Pincushion distortion?
• What is Mustache distortion?
• What is Chromatic aberration / purple fringing?
• What is Vignetting?

 

What is Curvilinear distortion?

This is where lines that should be straight in your image appear curved or bowed in some way. There a quite a few different types of this distortion, but the most common you will come across is barrel distortion, where vertical lines appear to curve outwards like a barrel. This type of distortion is most common in wide angle or fisheye lenses. The effect will be really pronounced in the fisheye as the effect is more deliberate here.

This can be used in portrait images to create unique looking images where the facial features are stretched and warped, this works equally well with humans and animals. 

 

 

 

What is Pincushion distortion?

Pincushion distortion is the opposite of barrel distortion, as the lines bow inwards. The effect is usually quite subtle and can only really be seen in square or rectangular objects when they are shot straight on, such as architecture with windows and doors, and other straight lines. This effect tends to be more of an issue in long telephoto lenses. Pincushion distortion is a lot less pronounced than barrel distortion and so it is often not noticeable in images unless you look really closely. However, it can also be corrected quite quickly and easily in photo editing software. The majority of modern cameras will provide built-in options to correct for this as well.

 

Extreme example of pincushion distortion, from an uncorrrected image, from the Sony E 18-105mm lens - you can see corrected versions in the review.

 

 

What is Mustache distortion?

Mustache distortion is basically a combination of barrel and pincushion distortion. Some lenses display both at the same time. It is most commonly seen in wide angle zooms and makes straight lines in images appear wavy. It can be noticed on the horizon, for example when photographing seascapes, particularly if the horizon is near the top or bottom of the frame.  

 

 

What is Chromatic Aberration?

Chromatic Aberration creates colour fringing on an image, usually around the lines and edges on the image, but it can also be present in other areas of the shot, where there are areas of high contrast, for example a black tree branch, against a bright sky. It usually appears as a purple, glowing halo giving "purple fringing", or can appear as red/magenta lines, often with green/cyan lines as well.

 

An example of chromatic aberration can be seen above, note the megenta and cyan / green lines on the edges of the window frame. You can see an example of purple fringing below, where the gravestone is up against a bright (blown out) sky. 

This can often be corrected either in camera automatically in modern cameras, or in photo editing software, such as Adobe Photoshop, and Adobe Lightroom.

 

Purple fringing can be seen around the top of the gravestone.

 

 

What is Vignetting?

All lenses have a little vignetting - it's the term used when the image is darker at the edges than in the centre, due the curvature of the lens. Vignetting can sometimes be used to your advantage as a stylistic tool, to highlight the main aspect of your image in the centre. Most modern cameras will automatically correct for vignetting, depending on the lens used, and this can be corrected in photo editing software quickly and easily, or alternatively added to give a creative effect and style to your photo. See our guide on how to add a vignette to a photo in Photoshop.

 

Severe vignetting can be seen in this image.

 

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Photo by Joshua Waller

 

Aperture is very important when it comes to portraiture as it controls how much of the background and foreground is in focus, which has an effect on how much of the focus is on the subject of your portrait. 

 

1. Depth-Of-Field

There is an amount of front and back sharpness in front of and behind the main focus point of your image and this is referred to as the depth-of-field.

The amount of depth-of-field within an image depends on several factors:

• The distance between the camera and the subject - The closer the subject the more shallow the depth-of-field. With distant scenes, therefore, there is plenty of depth-of-field.
• Choice of lens aperture - The wider the lens aperture (ie /2.8, f/4) the shallower the depth-of-field, and the smaller the aperture (f/16, f/22) the greater the depth-of-field.
• Focal length - Contrary to popular belief a wide-angle lens does not give greater depth-of-field than a telephoto lens if the subject magnification is the same. You can test this for yourself. Take a frame-filling headshot with a wide-angle lens (you will have to get close to the subject, so warn them!) and then do the same frame-filling shot with a telephoto – this means backing away from the subject. Use the same aperture for both and you will see that the depth-of-field is the same.

Some cameras come equipped with a depth-of-field preview button, letting you see how much depth-of-field you have before taking the shot, but you can just experiment with depth-of-field and preview the shots on-screen to see what works best if your camera doesn't have this particular function. 

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

2. Photographing People

In terms of portraits, especially outdoors, wider lens apertures are often best because they throw the background nicely out of focus. How effective this is depends on the scene and focal length as well as aperture choice. If your subject is standing quite close to a distracting background even shooting at f/2.8 or f/4 will not throw the background out of focus but bringing the subject forward a couple of metres should work nicely.

If you do use a wide aperture for your portraits, do make doubly sure that the subject's eyes are in focus. With the shallow depth-of-field created by wide apertures, even a small error can mean unsharp eyes and you do not want that in your portraits.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

3. Bokeh Backgrounds

How the background is thrown out of focus depends on the lens. Bokeh is the term used to describe the pictorial quality of the out of focus blur. Lens design and aperture shape play a large part in how effective its bokeh is, so do try it with your own optics. A good test is shooting a close-up portrait outside against a background with some bright pinpoints of light, ie sun glinting off water, car lights, streetlamps etc.

Of course, you might prefer greater sharpness in your backgrounds and that is when small apertures are used. The important thing is to keep your eye on the background and if it looks messy or cluttered use wide apertures rather than small ones.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

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To help you give your urban photography an abstract feel, here are 8 top tips on what, how and where to take your photos when out exploring a town or city. 

 

1. Focus On What's Interesting

When you find something that catches your eye, think about how you can compose the shot to take the subject away from its surroundings so it becomes abstract rather than a great city shot with several interesting elements. The key to capturing an image that works is to create an image out of something ordinary that you wouldn't normally see while still creating an appealing shot.

 

2. More Than One Point Of Interest

When you have a subject that has multiple points of interest you have the opportunity to capture various elements, some which may not have seemed so obvious as working in an abstract way at the start.

 

3. Create Scale

Just because you're capturing abstracts doesn't mean you always have to work up-close. Think of it as cropping out unwanted elements rather than using your lens to zoom in. Use surrounding elements to emphasise size but still frame the image so the building's surroundings are removed, giving emphasis to its shapes and patterns rather than it having context. 

 

4. Use Colour

By using a single bright colour in a shot that's mostly of the same shades can give the viewer of the image a point of focus that can also be used to guide and lead the eye to other points in the shot. This is even more so when the area is limited and contrasts so greatly with the rest of the image. Strong blocks of colour can also work well but you don't want one to overpower the other so the viewer doesn't pay attention to the rest of the frame. 

 

 

5. Look For Shadows 

This isn't something our eyes tend to see but when arranged in the frame properly, they can be a great subject matter on their own or enhance the shapes/patterns of an object you're making your point of focus. 

 

6. Lines Work Well

 If you want to use lines in your image, try to find a location that gives you a shot that has lines that vary in size and colour. Bolder lines can have more impact than small, faint ones and do remember they will still guide the eye through the shot and tell the viewer where they should be looking. Don't think lines have to be straight either as a curved line will still guide the viewer's eye. 

 

7. Shoot Through Other Objects

If you find a rain-covered window or even a water feature that can be used to capture a distorted reflection thanks to the ripples in the water, use them to your advantage. Keep an eye out for coloured glass, reflective buildings and any other items you think will give your city shots that abstract feel you're searching for. 

 

8. People Like Patterns & Symmetry 

As humans, we like to see repeating patterns and symmetrical objects so take advantage of this. Patterns can guide the eye across an image as well as make your abstract shot more interesting thanks to the shapes they create. 

 

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If you're searching for inspiration for a set of photographs, choose a colour and go out and take a series of pictures of that colour, it can be similar objects or totally different subjects, but the linking colour theme means that they can hang together as a panel. 

 

Themes To Choose

Try writing down a colour and then listing as many things as possible that are of that colour. As a suggestion, try some of the following:

• Red: Poppies, phone boxes, post boxes, tomatoes, peppers.
• Yellow: Melons, bananas, daffodils, buttercups.
• Green: Fruit & vegetables, grass, trees.

Other items (cars, doors, cladding on buildings, bottles etc.) come in a huge variety of colours and can be included in any group. There's literally nothing that can't be included.

 

Composition Is Key

When you take a single colour as a subject, you need to ensure that the composition, in terms of shapes, textures and lines to counteract the lack of colour range, so look carefully and spend time composing your images. Also, try going abstract, perhaps using camera movement to take away "reality" and emphasise the "colour".

 

Work On Several Themes

If it's something that appeals to you, try having a number of "themes" on the go at once – it's not something that you have to go out and shoot in a day, but can be built up over weeks or months. The results can be a very powerful set (or sets) of images.

I, for example, spent some time at the coast and walking along the seafront, loved the countless different coloured beach huts; but to photograph a mass of different huts and colours wouldn't have given as coherent a set of images. Having wandered up and down the promenade, I decided that blue would be a good choice, as there was plenty of variety, with all blue elements and strong blues set against more neutral tones (white).

While working on the blue huts, I still made a point of photographing other colours, which can go in collections of other colours at another time.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

 

Using long exposure can create some cracking shots when used correctly but the smooth, almost dry-ice look using longer shutter speeds gives to water isn't everyone's cup of tea or idea of fun when they're heading off for a day of photography outdoors. So, if you've never tried this technique before and are wondering if it's for you, have a think about the following questions to help you decide.

 

1. Are you a fan of the outdoors?

This technique is all about leaving the shutter open long enough to turn movement into creative streaks and blur to give you a landscape with an almost graphical twist. For this reason, many types of these shots are taken where there's a wide expanse of water (the coast mainly) but you can also capture inland landscapes when you have a sky dotted with clouds or scenes with waterfalls that can add a feeling of movement and direction to the shot when taken with longer shutter speeds. The coast does give you many other still objects you can use to guide the eye and add interest to your shots though. Think tall piers sat in a mist of water, rocks adding foreground interest and several groynes or even a jetty leading the eye.

If you prefer city shooting, you can use the same technique to create streaks of colour from traffic.

 

2. Do you have a tripod?

If the answer to this is 'no' and you don't intend purchasing one anytime soon then long exposure photography isn't for you. Why? Well, with exposures in access of 30 seconds, these types of images aren't something you can really successfully take hand-held as shake will just ruin your shots.

 

3. Do you have a remote / cable release?

This isn't as important as owning a tripod but owning and using one will mean you don't have to actually touch the camera's shutter button, reducing the chances of shake spoiling the shot. However, if you want to use your camera's Bulb mode, you really need to have a remote / cable release in your kit collection. If you have a camera you've purchased more recently then it may have the option for the shutter to be controlled via an app from your Smartphone, eliminating the need for a remote to be purchased.

 

4. Do you have an ND filter?

To get the really long exposures, particularly when working out of the hours of dawn and dusk, you'll need an ND filter. These come in various strengths and will extend your shutter speeds to the length needed for capturing silk-like water and clouds streaked across the sky.

If you don't own an ND filter but do have a polariser you can still try this technique but you'll have to do it at the start or end of the day when light levels are lower. You'll also need to use a low ISO and keep your apertures small.

Polarising filter can work if just starting out or shoot at dusk with a low ISO and narrow aperture.

 

 

5. Do you have patience?

This technique isn't for someone who likes to take a quick snap and move onto the next thing as you will end up standing around for a while waiting for your camera to capture and process the image. With exposure times that can often extend well beyond a minute, you can find yourself twiddling your thumbs quite a lot of the time. However, if you enjoy quiet moments of contemplation or just like to watch the world go by, then maybe playing around with longer shutter speeds is for you.

 

6. Do you have an eye for composition?

When working with longer shutter speeds, landscape scenes can often take on a more graphical feel/composition and you have to ensure there are elements in the frame which will show movement as well as items to guide the eye and add balance. Without clouds moving across the sky or some form of water element, there won't be any movement which when combined with a slower shutter speed is what gives you the nice streaks and soft, blurry water effect.

 

7. Do you mind working out calculations?

Although this statement isn't relevant to everyone any more, if you don't own a smartphone or forget to take it out with you, you'll find yourself scribbling down shutter speed calculations when working with Bulb mode. So, if you're not a fan of maths, you'll need to invest in one of the many apps that will work out calculations for you.

  8. Do you have Live View?

Cameras that have a Live View function make the set-up for this technique much simpler as it often still works even with a strong ND filter attached to your lens. If you look through a viewfinder with an ND filter attached you won't be able to see anything which means to set-up, you have to remove the filter to compose and focus (manually) before carefully fitting the filter back in-place which is obviously doable but not as straightforward as using Live View.  

 

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