DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Dke (Day 9 - Crop Fields).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 10

Tourists

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Day 11

Negative Space

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Day 12

Letters

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Day 13

People Outdoors

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Day 14

Long Exposures

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Day 15

Patterns

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Day 16

Vignettes

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

                                         Before                                                                                             After

 

Anthropics Technology is giving ePHOTOzine members the chance to save on the new PortraitPro 24.

Enhance your portrait work for pro-style portraits with new features:

 

Key New Features:

• Face painting
• New gender and age detector
• Mouth inpainting & teeth replacer
• Face recovery
• Skin and hair masks
• Glasses reflection remover

 

 

Improved Workflow:

• Seamlessly switch between faces in group shots.
• Effortlessly share presets.
• Utilise a streamlined preset search box.
• Explore more image save options.
• (Exclusive to Studio Max) Apply multiple presets to each picture.

 

Buy PortraitPro 24 or upgrade at 50% off, plus get an exclusive extra 25% off with the code EPZ785. 

See Anthropics Bundles for further savings. Code EPZ785 is valid on any Anthropics software including PortraitPro, PortraitPro Body, LandscapePro, and Smart Photo Editor, or Bundles. 

Don’t miss out—extra 25% off ends midnight Sunday!

Shop Now

 

 

The longer reach of telephoto lenses is a brilliant thing for photographers who want to photograph shy wildlife, pull far away subjects closer or simply want to fill the frame to create an attention-grabbing shot. 

To show you just how versatile a telephoto lens can be, we've got a top list of 8 ways these long lenses can be used. Plus, should you be in the market for a new telephoto lens, we have quite a few top telephoto lenses featured in our top lists which include both Telephoto Prime Lenses and Telephoto Zoom Lenses. 

If you're not sure if you should purchase a zoom or prime lens, have a read of this tutorial: Prime Vs Zoom Lenses

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Here Are Our 8 Top Ways To Use A Telephoto Lens:
1. Bring Far Subjects Close

© Joshua Waller

 

The telephoto effect these lenses have make objects, that may actually have quite a lot of distance between them, appear as if they're sat close together. The longer your focal length, the more obvious the effect will be. It's useful when you have a city skyline or mountains in the background which will give you a more interesting and pleasing shot if they're pulled a little closer to the object closer to your lens e.g. the bridge, building or boulder that's your main point of focus.

 

2. Fill The Frame

© Joshua Waller

 

When you want to exclude some part of what's in your frame e.g. a boring grey sky that's in the background of your landscape shot, use a telephoto lens to focus in on the colourful tree line rather than having the trees and sky in shot. It'll also pull a distant subject closer to you, which means you can get frame-filling shots of shy wildlife or of a particular aspect of the landscape that's too far for you to get to.

 

3. Pick Distant Subjects Out

© Joshua Waller

 

If you want to draw attention to a particular aspect that would be lost if shot with a wider focal length, use a telephoto lens to isolate your subject. You can do this with shorter focal lengths, but the longer reach of a telephoto means you can isolate a subject that's some distance away from where you're shooting from.

 

4. Capture Shots Of Wildlife

© Richard Hanson

 

As a telephoto lens closes the distance between you and whatever you're photographing, it's an ideal lens for photographing wildlife. With a telephoto lens you'll be able to take shots that look like you were just a few steps away from your subject when really you were some distance away. This distance means your subject won't be scared off and if you're shooting what could be considered as a dangerous animal, the distance makes it safer for you.

    5. Photograph The Moon

© Joshua Waller

 

Your shots won't be as good as those who use telescopes, but you can still get excellent shots of the moon with a long telephoto lens. As well as a very long lens you also need a tripod, clear skies, good weather, remote/cable release, a few hours to spare and good technique. You can even take a number of shots, and combine multiple shots to produce a sharper image.

 

6. Portraits

© Joshua Waller

 

Shooting head or head and shoulder shots with a longer focal length can give a better perspective and allows for a tighter crop when working further away from your subject. This distance also means you don't have to work too close to your subject and as a result, they'll be more comfortable, and you'll have more natural-looking portraits. You'll also be able to capture shots without any distortion and backgrounds are more easily thrown out of focus, even when they are just a couple of meters behind your subject, meaning all focus falls directly on your subject. Just keep an eye on your shutter speed if working hand-held, though, as you don't want shake spoiling your shot. Find more tips on shooting portraits.

 

7. Shallow Depth Of Field

© Joshua Waller

 

As mentioned above, telephoto lenses make it easier to get the blurry backgrounds in photos that isolate your subject and really make them the focus of your shot. You don't want a distracting background detail competing for the viewer's attention and a shallow depth of field will make sure this doesn't happen.

 

8. Capture Action

© Joshua Waller

 

For fast-paced action that you can't get close to e.g. motorsport and flying events, you'll need the longer focal lengths telephotos give you as most of the time, it'll be impossible to get close to the action. To create a sense of pace, use your telephoto lens to shoot a few shots where your subject is sharp but the background is nicely thrown out of focus. How good you are at panning, what shutter speed you use, how fast your subject is moving and how much light's around will make this task harder / easier every time you head to the track, but do it a few times and you'll soon perfect your technique.

  More Top Tips

How about picking up some top composition tips that will help you perfect the shots you capture with your telephoto lens? There are also hundreds of top tutorials to read in our 'How To' section of the site. 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Archie2022 (Day 23 - Sunsets By The Sea).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 24

Portrait Landscape

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Day 25

'Hot' Theme

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Day 26

Ruins

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Day 27

Big, Bold Skies

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Day 28

Black & White Buildings

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Day 29

Eyes

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Day 30

Beautiful Bokeh

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Day 31

'Yellow' Colour Theme

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

It's the school summer holidays here in the UK which means many will be heading to the coast either on day-trips or for a longer holiday which gives us photographers the chance to capture a few coastal landscapes. If you do have coastal landscapes on your summer shoot agenda, here are a few tips to think about.

  1. Time Of Day

You can capture coastal landscapes at any time of the day, however, most photographers favour the light during the 'golden hours'. You get this light regardless of where you are, but it is where it falls that is important. On the east coast, the land gets warm light early in the day but not later when the sea gets the benefit. On the west coast, it is the other way round. But this is a massive generalisation because of the way the coastline is not made up of straight lines. Check an OS map to see the potential of the coastline you're visiting and do your research online to ensure you don't miss the best light.

It's also worth noting that everything from blue skies dotted with white clouds to brewing storm clouds can work well at the coast, you just have to be out at the right time of day with the right gear which includes waterproofs and protection for your camera gear if you're heading out when the heavens have opened.

 

2. Pack The Right Accessories

Wide-angle lenses will be what we tend to reach for first when landscapes are in-mind and a tripod is an essential piece of kit no landscape photographer should be without. As you could be working with lower light levels and slower shutter speeds you may want to consider taking a remote / cable release to reduce the risk of camera shake and make sure image stabilisation is switched off when supporting your kit on a tripod otherwise shake could be introduced. To balance the exposure, you may find an ND grad filter handy as the sky tends to be a lot brighter than other areas of your shot.

 

3. Foreground interest

There's nothing wrong with a photo of an empty beach stretching out for what seems to be miles but by adding some foreground interest you'll give your image more depth, help guide the eye through the shot and keep people interested in your photo for longer. A low angle and a wide-angle lens will help exaggerate the perspective of the shot and anything from rocks and wood that's washed up after a storm to jetties, lobster pots and patterns in the sand can be used to add interest the foreground of your shot. Just remember you'll need a smaller aperture to get everything from the front to the back of the shot in focus. This could increase the exposure time, particularly if you're shooting during the 'golden hours', so make use of your tripod.

Reflections can be used as foreground interest to add more depth to a scene. They'll also help brighten your foreground, making the overall shot more evenly lit. Look for puddles left by the receding tide or try using the water sat in rock pools to capture reflections of a cloud-dotted or sunset sky.

 

 

4. Long exposures

If you're working when the light's lower or just like the 'misty' water effect, you're going to need to use slower shutter speeds. For this, you need a strong, sturdy tripod and you must make sure it's not going to topple over if a wave circles it. Try pushing the legs into the sand slightly to anchor its position; just remember to wash the feet when you get home to get rid of the sand and salt. If it's a particularly bright day you'll need an ND filter to reduce the amount of light reaching the camera's sensor and remember to use low ISOs as well as a small aperture. If you don't want to capture the 'blurred' water shot, you'll need to use quicker shutter speeds, wider apertures and you may need to increase your ISO level. Alternatively, visit the location earlier / later (depending on the time of day) when there's still plenty of light in the sky.

A blurry sky dotted with clouds will give you the chance to create patterns as the longer exposures cause the cloud's movement to stretch across the sky and if you wait until the sun's set you could capture the movement of the stars as trails above the ocean, but this is a wholly different technique in itself.

 

5. Horizons

You don't want it to look like the sea and sand's about to slide out of shot so make sure the horizon's straight and don't put it in the centre of the frame. If the sky's more interesting move the horizon down but if there's more interest in the foreground lose some of the sky and move the horizon up. If you are going to deliberately slope the horizon make sure you make it obvious otherwise it'll just look like you've not looked through the viewfinder to check if the horizon's level or not.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

Aperture is very important when it comes to portraiture as it controls how much of the background and foreground is in focus, which has an effect on how much of the focus is on the subject of your portrait. 

 

1. Depth-Of-Field

There is an amount of front and back sharpness in front of and behind the main focus point of your image and this is referred to as the depth-of-field.

The amount of depth-of-field within an image depends on several factors:

• The distance between the camera and the subject - The closer the subject the more shallow the depth-of-field. With distant scenes, therefore, there is plenty of depth-of-field.
• Choice of lens aperture - The wider the lens aperture (ie /2.8, f/4) the shallower the depth-of-field, and the smaller the aperture (f/16, f/22) the greater the depth-of-field.
• Focal length - Contrary to popular belief a wide-angle lens does not give greater depth-of-field than a telephoto lens if the subject magnification is the same. You can test this for yourself. Take a frame-filling headshot with a wide-angle lens (you will have to get close to the subject, so warn them!) and then do the same frame-filling shot with a telephoto – this means backing away from the subject. Use the same aperture for both and you will see that the depth-of-field is the same.

Some cameras come equipped with a depth-of-field preview button, letting you see how much depth-of-field you have before taking the shot, but you can just experiment with depth-of-field and preview the shots on-screen to see what works best if your camera doesn't have this particular function. 

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

2. Photographing People

In terms of portraits, especially outdoors, wider lens apertures are often best because they throw the background nicely out of focus. How effective this is depends on the scene and focal length as well as aperture choice. If your subject is standing quite close to a distracting background even shooting at f/2.8 or f/4 will not throw the background out of focus but bringing the subject forward a couple of metres should work nicely.

If you do use a wide aperture for your portraits, do make doubly sure that the subject's eyes are in focus. With the shallow depth-of-field created by wide apertures, even a small error can mean unsharp eyes and you do not want that in your portraits.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

3. Bokeh Backgrounds

How the background is thrown out of focus depends on the lens. Bokeh is the term used to describe the pictorial quality of the out of focus blur. Lens design and aperture shape play a large part in how effective its bokeh is, so do try it with your own optics. A good test is shooting a close-up portrait outside against a background with some bright pinpoints of light, ie sun glinting off water, car lights, streetlamps etc.

Of course, you might prefer greater sharpness in your backgrounds and that is when small apertures are used. The important thing is to keep your eye on the background and if it looks messy or cluttered use wide apertures rather than small ones.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

When you head off on your holidays you'll probably spend some time at the beach and when the sun begins to set and the sky fills with those warm, summer shades, you and every other person on the beach will be pulling their camera out of its bag. The low sun may make great landscape shots but put anything in between you and the sun and it'll turn into a dark silhouette lacking shape and texture.

However, this isn't always a bad thing. For summer silhouettes to work you need a strong, recognisable shape so if you're headed to the beach with your family, why not use one or all of them in your shot? You could also spend time shooting other people as they walk along the shore or stand to watch the sunset.

 

1. Set-Up

Make sure you know what time the sun will be setting and in what direction as you don't want to turn up at a beach to find you can't actually see the sun setting from it. Once you have your chosen location make sure you arrive in plenty of time, which shouldn't be a problem if you've had a day out at the beach, but if you haven't been on the sand, at least an hour or two before the sun is due to set. Do check out tide times too as you don't want your kit and your family swept out to sea!

 

2. How To Shoot

Once you have a willing subject position them so your light source is behind them and it can help if you set yourself up so you’re shooting from a slightly lower angle, although this isn't a must. Take a test shot and have a look at the image on the back of the screen. Chances are unless you're working manually, you'll have shot a silhouette. If you don't get the desired look, try using exposure compensation and dial in a -1 or -2 setting. Using spot or centre-weighted metering will also help you capture a silhouette, although can still use multi-zone metering, you just need to aim the camera up at the sky and use exposure lock to take a reading from the brighter sky. Then all you have to do is recompose and take your image. 

 

3. What To Photograph

As mentioned strong shapes work well so get your subject to try and make different shapes while stood on the sand. This should be quite easy with kids but you may have to be more persuasive with adults!

If you have a group of people, get them to jump in the air so you can capture the shapes they create at the top of their jump. Try capturing a couple holding hands as they watch the sun go down or introduce props to keep your kids busy and more relaxed. Giving them a ball to throw or a bucket and spade to carry will create more interesting shapes and as a result, you'll have a more dynamic shot.

Experiment with angle and how far you crop in too to see how it can make a more interesting picture. If you're photographing someone's head, for example, shoot them as a profile rather than face on as you'll be able to see more features. Don't have too many objects too close together either as they'll all merge into one indistinct shape and the effect won't work as well.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Optical distortion is something that affects all lenses to some extent. However, the effect is more pronounced in certain lenses and can be used to give a different spin on an otherwise 'normal' view of an object. 

Although it distorts images, it is not always a negative effect and it can be used in different situations to create abstract or more creative shots of subjects.

Below, we've listed what types of optical distortion there are and how they can affect your images, either in a negative or positive way. 

• What is Curvilinear distortion?
• What is Pincushion distortion?
• What is Mustache distortion?
• What is Chromatic aberration / purple fringing?
• What is Vignetting?

 

What is Curvilinear distortion?

This is where lines that should be straight in your image appear curved or bowed in some way. There a quite a few different types of this distortion, but the most common you will come across is barrel distortion, where vertical lines appear to curve outwards like a barrel. This type of distortion is most common in wide angle or fisheye lenses. The effect will be really pronounced in the fisheye as the effect is more deliberate here.

This can be used in portrait images to create unique looking images where the facial features are stretched and warped, this works equally well with humans and animals. 

 

 

 

What is Pincushion distortion?

Pincushion distortion is the opposite of barrel distortion, as the lines bow inwards. The effect is usually quite subtle and can only really be seen in square or rectangular objects when they are shot straight on, such as architecture with windows and doors, and other straight lines. This effect tends to be more of an issue in long telephoto lenses. Pincushion distortion is a lot less pronounced than barrel distortion and so it is often not noticeable in images unless you look really closely. However, it can also be corrected quite quickly and easily in photo editing software. The majority of modern cameras will provide built-in options to correct for this as well.

 

Extreme example of pincushion distortion, from an uncorrrected image, from the Sony E 18-105mm lens - you can see corrected versions in the review.

 

 

What is Mustache distortion?

Mustache distortion is basically a combination of barrel and pincushion distortion. Some lenses display both at the same time. It is most commonly seen in wide angle zooms and makes straight lines in images appear wavy. It can be noticed on the horizon, for example when photographing seascapes, particularly if the horizon is near the top or bottom of the frame.  

 

 

What is Chromatic Aberration?

Chromatic Aberration creates colour fringing on an image, usually around the lines and edges on the image, but it can also be present in other areas of the shot, where there are areas of high contrast, for example a black tree branch, against a bright sky. It usually appears as a purple, glowing halo giving "purple fringing", or can appear as red/magenta lines, often with green/cyan lines as well.

 

An example of chromatic aberration can be seen above, note the megenta and cyan / green lines on the edges of the window frame. You can see an example of purple fringing below, where the gravestone is up against a bright (blown out) sky. 

This can often be corrected either in camera automatically in modern cameras, or in photo editing software, such as Adobe Photoshop, and Adobe Lightroom.

 

Purple fringing can be seen around the top of the gravestone.

 

 

What is Vignetting?

All lenses have a little vignetting - it's the term used when the image is darker at the edges than in the centre, due the curvature of the lens. Vignetting can sometimes be used to your advantage as a stylistic tool, to highlight the main aspect of your image in the centre. Most modern cameras will automatically correct for vignetting, depending on the lens used, and this can be corrected in photo editing software quickly and easily, or alternatively added to give a creative effect and style to your photo. See our guide on how to add a vignette to a photo in Photoshop.

 

Severe vignetting can be seen in this image.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

- Partner Content - 

 

The EOS RF mount’s inner diameter is 54mm, which is the same as the EOS EF mount. But with no reflex mirror, the back focus distance of the mirrorless mount is much shorter, which makes new lens designs possible.

 

The full frame or 36x24mm format became popular for stills photography around 100 years ago, with Leica leading the way in the 3:2 format’s growth. Later in 1934, Kodak gave the format a huge lift by introducing the pre-loaded 135 film cassette.

In the early days of digital system cameras, full-frame took a backseat as consumer models adopted the APS-C format, but it wasn’t long before it caught up. The full-frame Canon EOS 5D arrived in 2005, just two years after the APS-C format EOS 300D, the first consumer-level digital DSLR.

 

The relatively low lit interior of IWM Duxford was not an issue for the EOS R with its good high ISO skills. The exposure was 1/160 sec at f/8 using ISO 25,600 and the noticeable noise vanished after treatment with Adobe Lightroom’s denoise tool. Image by Will Cheung.

 

Canon’s full-frame mirrorless journey started with the EOS R, which was released in 2018. Despite its vintage in digital camera terms, it remains a capable model with much to commend it, and that’s why we have based our £2000 full-frame kit on it.

MPB has excellent condition samples of the EOS R in the £744-809 price range. That compares with current Canon full-frame models; the 26.2 megapixel EOS RP is £1049 and the 24.2 megapixel EOS R8 is £1629 (all body only prices). Of course, those two cameras are more recent and thus offer superior performance in some areas, but nevertheless the EOS R has plenty going for it.

At the EOS R’s heart is a 30.3 megapixel Dual Pixel CMOS AF sensor, which uses advanced phase detection with 5655 AF positions (in single point AF mode) for quick and accurate autofocus for stills and video, even in challenging lighting conditions.  

The EOS RF lens mount plays a significant part in the impressive AF performance of all EOS R cameras. With 12-pin connections compared with the 8-pins of the EOS EF mount, that allows faster communication and data transfer. 

Another notable benefit of the new EOS RF mount and its shorter back focus is that EOS EF mount lenses can be used on EOS R mirrorless cameras without losing functionality via an adaptor. With the vast number of EOS EF lenses around, new and used, it means those photographers new to the EOS R system are not limited when it comes to lens choice.

 

In terms of controls and layout the EOS R has a similar design and feel to Canon’s long established and massively popular DSLR cameras.

 

The EOS R saw the debut of the Touch Bar, a customisable touch control. It wasn’t generally well received by reviewers but it has potential once you get used to it.

 

As you’d expect, image quality out of the EOS R is first-rate, typically Canon with a rich but lifelike colour rendition and low levels of noise at all speeds until you get to ISO 3200 and beyond. Images shot at ISO 1600 and 3200 are very smooth and raws look great even without denoising. In fact, even shots taken at ISO 25,600 can recover very nicely with software denoising and fine detail isn’t too badly impacted, which is a remarkable performance given the extreme ISO.

Let’s move on to lens choice. Since the RF system’s arrival, Canon has progressed quickly on its lens system and there’s an extensive range to choose from. There are a few gaps and many of Canon’s RF lenses are beyond our theoretical budget, which limits our options. Also, right now there are no third party autofocus options for Canon’s full-frame mirrorless cameras, which is a negative point to bear in mind, although, hopefully, this might change in time.

For our £2000 full-frame outfit, we have spent £744 on a decent condition EOS R body, which leaves £1256 for lenses. Naturally, it is a matter of personal taste but with Canon’s RF lenses, there is the possibility of going for primes or zooms or a combination of the two types.

 

Raw files from the EOS R have plenty of scope when it comes to recovering highlights and shadows in editing software. Shot with the RF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM on the EOS R using an exposure of 1/200sec at f/4 and ISO 3200. Image by Will Cheung.

 

In terms of primes in our price range, there is a good choice in the wide-angle and standard focal lengths but at telephoto, there is just the RF 85mm f/2 Macro, which from MPB costs in the range of £434-469. Add the RF 24mm f/1.8 Macro IS STM at £524 and RF 50mm f/1.8 STM £159-189, and you have a good three prime lens kit that is photographically reasonably versatile with the benefit of fast apertures and comes within our budget.

If having a more powerful telephoto lens is important, a mix of primes and zooms would work. For example, our £1256 budget would allow the RF 28mm f/2.8 STM, RF 50mm f/1.8 STM and RF 100-400mm f/5.6-8 IS USM. At current MPB prices, that trio would cost around £1024, which leaves enough for protection filters and a spare camera battery. Such an outfit would be portable and suit a wide range of subject genres.

For maximum flexibility, there’s the option of a three lens zoom outfit. Taking the RF 15-30mm f/4.5-6.3 IS STM, RF 24-105mm f/4-7.1 IS STM and RF 100-400mm f/5.6-8 IS USM at MPB’s used prices – going for good condition samples – that powerful three lens outfit would cost in the order of £1227. While the maximum apertures of these three zooms are nothing special, that is offset by having focal length coverage from 15mm ultra-wide to 400mm telephoto, which means a very broad range of subjects can be covered.

 

The RF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM is a great photographic all-rounder. The interior of Peterborough Cathedral was taken with a handheld EOS R using an exposure of 1/15sec at f/4 and ISO 200. Image by Will Cheung.

 

A final option to consider is to keep it simple and just go for one lens to partner the EOS R. A used RF 24-240mm f/4-6.3 IS USM from MPB would cost £729, leaving enough for a few accessories. The other single zoom option is the RF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM. Of all the zooms discussed here, this is probably the most capable performer and it’s priced accordingly, £764-1079 from MPB, but it’s still comfortably within our budget with funds left over for a protection filter and a nice bag. 

MPB’s vast stock of used imaging gear is checked over by experts, comes with a free 12 month warranty and each item is individually photographed, so what you see on its website is what you get. With MPB’s help, buying a versatile full-frame outfit with our £2000 budget is no problem, and there are many options when it comes to deciding which optics to go for.

 

With the EOS R’s 30.3 megapixel resolution there’s ample potential for large prints and cropping without software interpolation. The exposure was 1/400sec at f/6.3 and ISO 100. Image by Will Cheung.

 

At a glance: Canon EOS R

 

Announced 2018 Sensor 30.3 megapixels, Dual Pixel CMOS Format 36x24mm, 6720x4480pixels ISO range 100-40,000 (expansion to ISO 50, 51,200, 102,400) Continous shooting 8fps, 5fps with AE/AF tracking Video 4K UHD, Full HD Weather sealing Yes MPB price range EOS R body, excellent condition £744-809

 

The EOS R’s compact body feels great in the hands and the contoured handgrip allows a secure hold and key controls are readily accessible.

 

 

 

News from MPB: Shoot creative wide aperture landscapes and hone your nature photography skills

MPB is the world’s largest retail platform for imaging gear but it offers so much more with buying guides, interviews with experts, videos and podcasts and technique advice. 

Two recently published features on MPB’s website cover two hugely popular genres, landscape and nature. 

In Learn: Top 5 Tips for Nature Photography Beginners, MPB chats with five leading exponents of the genre. Aimed at newcomers to the subject, there’s plenty to get you on the road to successful photos with essential camera and technique advice. Click here to enjoy this feature. 

Traditionally, landscape photography is all about small f/stops and extensive depth-of-field but this MPB feature breaks convention and looks at the creative potential of shooting with fast aperture lenses. Outdoor shooter James Popsys shows what can be achieved with two f/1.4 prime lenses so check out his technique-packed feature here.

 

MPB Explained

You need kit to take photographs and produce videos, and taking the used route is a cost-effective way of making the most of your budget and keeping up with the latest developments in imaging technology.

MPB is one of the biggest used retailers with bases in the UK, Germany and the USA.

Trading with MPB the process is fair, safe, painless and incredibly easy.

Whether you have kit to sell, want to make a purchase or part exchange, start by going to the MPB website which is intuitive and straightforward to use.

If you have kit to trade, just start typing the name in and a list of suggestions from MPB’s huge database will appear. If a name on that list matches your product click on it and add its condition; if not, continue typing in the whole name and condition.

It’s worth bearing in mind that MPB’s database covers much more than cameras and lenses so if you have, for example, a photo backpack, tripod or filters to sell these can be shown as you type in their name too.

With all your kit listed, add contact details and a quote will appear in your inbox soon afterwards, although manually entered items will take one working day.

If you are happy with the quote, accept it and follow the instructions to get the kit ready for courier collection on a day to suit you. For higher-value deals, an MPB account manager will also be in touch, so you have a personal point of contact if you have any queries.

Once received by MPB, you will get a notification and after checking by its product specialists you will receive a final quote. This can vary from the original quote if there is a missing item —like a battery not being supplied—or your assessed condition differs from the actual condition.

A quote can go down, but it can also increase if the kit’s condition is better than your assessment.

The whole process doesn’t take long and MPB are in touch by e-mail at every step so you’re never in the dark, and only when you are totally happy with the deal, pass on your payment details or pay the balance in the case of part-exchange. Either way, the money or your new kit will be with you soon after.

Get A Quote From MPB Today

 

About MPB

• MPB is the largest global platform to buy, sell and trade used photo and video kit.
• MPB is the simple, safe and circular way to trade, upgrade and get paid.
• MPB is not a marketplace, instead buying directly from visual storytellers and evaluating all items before reselling MPB-approved kit.
• MPB's dynamic pricing engine provides the right price upfront for all items.
• Circularity is at the centre of MPB, promoting sustainability, diversity and inclusion in everything they do.
• MPB prioritises inclusive recruitment and supports employees with extensive training and development. They promote inclusive visual storytelling and an inclusive circular economy.
• MPB's business model is 100% circular. All packaging is 100% plastic-free. Their cloud-based platform uses 100% renewable electricity.
• MPB recirculates more than 570,000 products annually
• MPB provides first-class customer service. Customers can receive support through their Help Centre or by speaking directly with a kit expert.
• MPB's product specialists are trusted by thousands of visual storytellers in the UK.
• MPB is rated ‘Excellent’ on Trustpilot with over 37,000 reviews.

Visit The MPB Website

 

To help you give your urban photography an abstract feel, here are 8 top tips on what, how and where to take your photos when out exploring a town or city. 

 

1. Focus On What's Interesting

When you find something that catches your eye, think about how you can compose the shot to take the subject away from its surroundings so it becomes abstract rather than a great city shot with several interesting elements. The key to capturing an image that works is to create an image out of something ordinary that you wouldn't normally see while still creating an appealing shot.

 

2. More Than One Point Of Interest

When you have a subject that has multiple points of interest you have the opportunity to capture various elements, some which may not have seemed so obvious as working in an abstract way at the start.

 

3. Create Scale

Just because you're capturing abstracts doesn't mean you always have to work up-close. Think of it as cropping out unwanted elements rather than using your lens to zoom in. Use surrounding elements to emphasise size but still frame the image so the building's surroundings are removed, giving emphasis to its shapes and patterns rather than it having context. 

 

4. Use Colour

By using a single bright colour in a shot that's mostly of the same shades can give the viewer of the image a point of focus that can also be used to guide and lead the eye to other points in the shot. This is even more so when the area is limited and contrasts so greatly with the rest of the image. Strong blocks of colour can also work well but you don't want one to overpower the other so the viewer doesn't pay attention to the rest of the frame. 

 

 

5. Look For Shadows 

This isn't something our eyes tend to see but when arranged in the frame properly, they can be a great subject matter on their own or enhance the shapes/patterns of an object you're making your point of focus. 

 

6. Lines Work Well

 If you want to use lines in your image, try to find a location that gives you a shot that has lines that vary in size and colour. Bolder lines can have more impact than small, faint ones and do remember they will still guide the eye through the shot and tell the viewer where they should be looking. Don't think lines have to be straight either as a curved line will still guide the viewer's eye. 

 

7. Shoot Through Other Objects

If you find a rain-covered window or even a water feature that can be used to capture a distorted reflection thanks to the ripples in the water, use them to your advantage. Keep an eye out for coloured glass, reflective buildings and any other items you think will give your city shots that abstract feel you're searching for. 

 

8. People Like Patterns & Symmetry 

As humans, we like to see repeating patterns and symmetrical objects so take advantage of this. Patterns can guide the eye across an image as well as make your abstract shot more interesting thanks to the shapes they create. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

 

Using long exposure can create some cracking shots when used correctly but the smooth, almost dry-ice look using longer shutter speeds gives to water isn't everyone's cup of tea or idea of fun when they're heading off for a day of photography outdoors. So, if you've never tried this technique before and are wondering if it's for you, have a think about the following questions to help you decide.

 

1. Are you a fan of the outdoors?

This technique is all about leaving the shutter open long enough to turn movement into creative streaks and blur to give you a landscape with an almost graphical twist. For this reason, many types of these shots are taken where there's a wide expanse of water (the coast mainly) but you can also capture inland landscapes when you have a sky dotted with clouds or scenes with waterfalls that can add a feeling of movement and direction to the shot when taken with longer shutter speeds. The coast does give you many other still objects you can use to guide the eye and add interest to your shots though. Think tall piers sat in a mist of water, rocks adding foreground interest and several groynes or even a jetty leading the eye.

If you prefer city shooting, you can use the same technique to create streaks of colour from traffic.

 

2. Do you have a tripod?

If the answer to this is 'no' and you don't intend purchasing one anytime soon then long exposure photography isn't for you. Why? Well, with exposures in access of 30 seconds, these types of images aren't something you can really successfully take hand-held as shake will just ruin your shots.

 

3. Do you have a remote / cable release?

This isn't as important as owning a tripod but owning and using one will mean you don't have to actually touch the camera's shutter button, reducing the chances of shake spoiling the shot. However, if you want to use your camera's Bulb mode, you really need to have a remote / cable release in your kit collection. If you have a camera you've purchased more recently then it may have the option for the shutter to be controlled via an app from your Smartphone, eliminating the need for a remote to be purchased.

 

4. Do you have an ND filter?

To get the really long exposures, particularly when working out of the hours of dawn and dusk, you'll need an ND filter. These come in various strengths and will extend your shutter speeds to the length needed for capturing silk-like water and clouds streaked across the sky.

If you don't own an ND filter but do have a polariser you can still try this technique but you'll have to do it at the start or end of the day when light levels are lower. You'll also need to use a low ISO and keep your apertures small.

Polarising filter can work if just starting out or shoot at dusk with a low ISO and narrow aperture.

 

 

5. Do you have patience?

This technique isn't for someone who likes to take a quick snap and move onto the next thing as you will end up standing around for a while waiting for your camera to capture and process the image. With exposure times that can often extend well beyond a minute, you can find yourself twiddling your thumbs quite a lot of the time. However, if you enjoy quiet moments of contemplation or just like to watch the world go by, then maybe playing around with longer shutter speeds is for you.

 

6. Do you have an eye for composition?

When working with longer shutter speeds, landscape scenes can often take on a more graphical feel/composition and you have to ensure there are elements in the frame which will show movement as well as items to guide the eye and add balance. Without clouds moving across the sky or some form of water element, there won't be any movement which when combined with a slower shutter speed is what gives you the nice streaks and soft, blurry water effect.

 

7. Do you mind working out calculations?

Although this statement isn't relevant to everyone any more, if you don't own a smartphone or forget to take it out with you, you'll find yourself scribbling down shutter speed calculations when working with Bulb mode. So, if you're not a fan of maths, you'll need to invest in one of the many apps that will work out calculations for you.

  8. Do you have Live View?

Cameras that have a Live View function make the set-up for this technique much simpler as it often still works even with a strong ND filter attached to your lens. If you look through a viewfinder with an ND filter attached you won't be able to see anything which means to set-up, you have to remove the filter to compose and focus (manually) before carefully fitting the filter back in-place which is obviously doable but not as straightforward as using Live View.  

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

MPB, the largest global platform for buying, selling and trading used photo and video kit, is proud to announce a renewed and expanded partnership with Brighton & Hove Albion Football Club as the Official Camera Equipment Partner for the 2025/2026 season. 

This new multi-year agreement builds on the success of MPB’s role as Official Highlights Partner during the 2024/2025 season. That collaboration delivered standout results, generating over 220 pieces of content, 51.9 million impressions and over 900,000 engagements.  MPB will now play a deeper role in connecting Albion fans to the stories and moments that matter. 

As part of the expanded deal, MPB will gain enhanced access to players and behind-the-scenes environments across the men's and women's teams. This access will power the creation of exclusive content that reveals the emotion, personality, and preparation behind top-level football – and the people who make it happen. 

 

This includes a new slate of series and features, such as: 

• Picture Perfect Moment – a social-first series spotlighting unforgettable and unseen moments from each match, both on and off the pitch. 
• Behind-the-scenes content at key club events, including Media Days and Official Team Photo Shoots. 
• Exclusive content collaborations with players from both teams throughout the season. 

 

MPB will also play a central role in delivering key moments directly to fans - from team news and matchday insights to pivotal VAR decisions and post-match highlights - through dynamic content shared across Brighton & Hove Albion’s digital channels. By capturing and sharing these high-impact moments, MPB helps deepen the connection between the club and its supporters, while continuing to tell its own brand story, one rooted in creativity, community and the power of visual storytelling. 

Commenting on the partnership deal, Matt Barker, CEO of MPB, said:

“Storytelling is at the heart of both football and photography - two worlds full of passion, drama and unforgettable moments. As a fellow Brighton-based business, we’re especially proud to continue our partnership with Brighton & Hove Albion and take on this new role as Official Camera Equipment Partner. It’s a brilliant collaboration that brings together two organisations rooted in the city’s creative and sporting culture, with a shared ambition to inspire and connect. We’re excited to go even deeper behind the scenes to bring fans closer to the club, and to share MPB’s mission with an even wider audience.” 

Russell Wood, Head of Commercial at Brighton & Hove Albion FC, said:

“We’re delighted to expand our partnership with MPB. They understand the power of great visual storytelling, and their creativity has helped us bring the club to life across digital channels. With this new agreement, we’re excited to build on that success and continue producing compelling content that resonates with our fans.” 

MPB’s support of the Brighton & Hove Albion Foundation will also continue, including camera kit donations and creative guidance to empower more people to tell their own stories through photography and film. 

As a Brighton-founded business, MPB is committed to giving back to its local community and championing inclusion, sustainability and accessibility in everything it does. These shared values remain at the core of the partnership, which celebrates what’s possible when creativity and sport come together.

For more information, please visit the MPB website.

 

Most of the time, when you're out taking photographs, even if it's a quick snap, make sure your shot has a strong point of interest as if it doesn't, you'll find anyone who looks at your image will look at the image, their eyes won't find anything to settle on and they'll simply move on to look at another shot. Without a focal point, there's nothing to draw them into the photograph so they'll simply lose interest with it. Of course, the more interesting the focal point is, the better your shot will be but there are a few other things you can do to make sure your focal point draws the viewer's attention.

 

1. One Main Focus Point

Images can have various points of interest but don't let them pull the attention from the main subject as your shot will just become confusing and the viewer will be unsure what to look at. Less attention-grabbing points of interest can be used on lines to draw the eye to a final resting point.

 

2. Lead In Lines

As mentioned above, by placing minor points of interest along a line you can guide the eye to your main point of interest. Straight lines such as fences or paths work well but other shapes, as talked about in our beginner's composition guide, can work equally as well. The spiral of a staircase will guide the eye up or down while positioning items along an S curve with the main point of focus at the end will lead the eye through the image. There's also the triangle where key features appear along the sides and points of the shape and when it's used correctly, you can create balance in your shot and also guide the eye through the photograph. Repetitive or symmetrical objects such as lamp posts lining either side of a street, a line of palm trees, statues or a series of arches can also be used to guide the eye to a single point.

 

3. What's In Focus

By using a larger aperture if you're working manually or by selecting Portrait Mode or Macro Mode if you're working close-up, which lets the camera know you want to use a larger aperture, you'll be able to throw the background out of focus, leaving all the attention on your main subject which will be sharp. By putting more distance between your subject and the background you'll be able to make the effect more prominent too. If you're a DSLR user, switching to a longer lens (zoom or prime) with wider maximum apertures will make it easier to get the blurry backgrounds you're looking for.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller 

 

4. Blur

When your main subject is moving, be it a pet, a person running, a car or bike, try using a slower shutter speed and pan with them, blurring the background into streaks but leaving them sharp. This will mean all focus falls on your main subject and the sense of speed is increased thanks to the horizontal streaks the background now has.

 

5. Size

A more obvious way to make sure you have one main point of focus is to fill the frame with it. This works particularly well when photographing flowers but can be applied to portraits too.

Photo by Joshua Waller 

6. Colour And Pop

Use contrasting colours or take it one step further and have a go at colour-popping, where you leave your main point of focus in colour and turn the rest of the image black & white. If you're shooting portraits, positioning your subject against a dark background will really make them 'pop' from the image.

 

7. Frame

By adding a frame you guide the eye to one main focal point in the scene that you want highlighting. You can also hide other objects you don't want to be in the shot behind your frame and it does have the added effect of just making your image more interesting generally.

 

8. Crop

If you have images on your computer that seem a little busy try cropping it to see if removing some of the elements makes it less busy and as a result, you get a main point of focus.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

Shooting an A to Z photo project is a more versatile area of photography than you might first think. You can, of course, shoot items that begin with each letter of the alphabet, but it's much more fun and testing at times if you shoot things that are shaped like letters.

 

What Gear Do I Need?

As letters can be found in various locations at different heights and angles you'll probably want to take a zoom lens out on your journey with you so you can shoot wide and also at longer focal lengths without the added weight of multiple lenses weighing your bag down. 

 

The Search

Some letters will jump out of the subject at you with ease while others will take a little more thinking about. Make sure you carry a checklist to keep a track of letters you've captured and you may find it easier to think about one letter at a time rather than hunting for several in one go. 

This project will have you walking all over so wear a comfy pair of shoes and of you have kids, this is a great thing to get them involved in, too.

 

Some Suggestions 

Branches make good candidates and also rocks with holes in can make great 'A's or 'P's. Anything that looks even remotely like a letter will create a quirky and fun piece of photography. A lamp-post, for example, will make a great 'I' while the end of a bench looks like an 'L' if you look closely enough. Once you've found all of your letters, try turning them into one big collage that you can hang on your wall. You'll probably find yourself capturing the near and far, the small and large, the straight and the curved, in sunshine and shade so this project is a great way to challenge yourself and your photography skills.

 

 

A Twist On The Theme

The other thing that you could try with this theme is an A - Z of photography styles. B for Black and White, S for sepia, etc. This is probably suited to more experienced photographers who know more terminology, though.

Another more fun thing you can try is getting a group of friends to pose as all the letters of the alphabet or as mentioned above, capture objects that begin with each letter of the alphabet. If you've already tried an alphabet project why not take on a number challenge instead? 

Be experimental with this - there are no real rules other than that the photos must represent the alphabet in some way. You could make it more challenging by limiting yourself to inside or outside objects, for example. But most importantly, though, it's about having fun and enjoying your photography!

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

A view of the Mekong River in Laos features a balanced composition and natural light.

Titled Mekong Views Laos and taken by Backabit, the photo places the river in the foreground, with trees along the banks and steep limestone cliffs rising behind. Additional layers of trees and hills extend into the distance, enhancing the sense of depth. The light is soft and even, bringing out detail across the scene. There’s a stillness to the image that feels grounded—calm, enduring, and true to the landscape.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2026, we’ll crown our 2025 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

  If used correctly, the empty space you leave in your shots (negative space) can make your photograph more interesting and easier to focus on rather than trying to fill every inch of the frame with interest. Negative space can play several important compositional roles so here are a few tips to help you think more about making the most of what's not in your scene:  

 

1. Reinforce What's Important

The obvious role of negative space is to show the viewer of your image what is and what isn't important in your shot. If there's nothing else fighting for focus, their eyes will be able to settle on your main subject without searching the rest of the shot first.

2. Balance Your Shot

Negative space can make a shot appear more balanced and as a general rule, you need twice as much negative space to the area taken up by your subject. For example, if you shot a close-up portrait and your subject fills the right third of the frame, you'd want the two thirds to the left to be negative space.
 

3. Give Your Shot Context

Of course, there are times, such as when you're shooting environmental portraits where you want to make the most of the size of the place you're taking photos in, when the above rule won't apply.

With environmental portraits, it's often what's around your subject that gives the shot more interest so filling your frame with your subject would mean the context would be lost.

 

 

4. Space For Your Subject

If you do place your subject to one side of your frame make sure they're looking towards the area of negative space. The same goes for action shots where they're running through the frame as generally, your shot will be more compositionally pleasing if they have space to move into. Of course, if you're wanting them to increase the sense of speed or want to make people wonder what they're looking at, position the negative space behind them, almost pushing them out of the frame.

5. Negative Space Doesn't Have To Be 'Empty'

By using one colour in your background when shooting indoors or by throwing it out of focus if you're shooting outdoors, it won't become a point of focus for your viewer so all attention will fall on your main subject. However, sometimes adding blur to your backgrounds will leave your shot with less impact. For example, if you're out shooting portraits and behind your subject is a mountain scene, shooting with a smaller aperture so you get front to back sharpness will exaggerate the amount of negative space around them, giving the shot more meaning and impact as a result.

6. Exaggerate The Negative Space

Take the idea one step further and strip all the colour out of your shot, leaving just the shapes and space around them to tell your story. You could also remove all the textures from the shot by shooting silhouettes.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to NDODS (Day 3 - The Night Sky).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

Creative Portraiture

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Day 2

Coastal Landscapes

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Day 4

Zoom Burst

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Day 5

Fancy Dress

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Day 6

Birds Of Prey

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Day 7

Festivals

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Day 8

Speed

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.